Though its 43mm size is not particularly vintage, and its gold-hued appliqué accents convey a bit more luxe than hardcore sportiness, this Bell & Ross BR 126 Sport Heritage GMT & Flyback nicely echoes the look and feel of 1960s aeronautic models. What’s more, its feature set, namely the 24-hour second time zone subdial and the easy-to-read chronograph, combine to make the watch one I’d happily take aboard my next flight to Geneva.
Bell & Ross BR 126 Sport Heritage GMT & Flyback
Bell & Ross’s many BR 123 and BR 126 models offer a retro-design alternative for fans of the company’s more contemporary and emblematic Instrument square-cased watches, which have defined the Bell & Ross style since the 01.15 Instrument debut in 2005. And while Bell & Ross showed its very first Vintage 126 models in 1997, actually predating the Instrument collections, the current Vintage design debuted with the firm’s Vintage 126 reboot in 2010.
The fixed tachymeter bezel on this new model, absent on the sportier BR 126 versions, cements the vintage look in my eyes. The impressively domed crystal and the brown-stitched calfskin strap further reinforce the watch’s ‘Heritage’ title.
That retro appeal is laudable and well executed, especially for a relatively young firm. Bell & Ross assuredly reminds the public who makes this watch. The company’s dials, with the large 12, 3, 6 and 9 on the nonchrono models, are consistent among the case variations and allow one to identify a Bell & Ross model, whatever its case shape, from across the room.
So too with this BR 126 Sport Heritage GMT & Flyback, with its large 12 and 6. And compared to its sportier Bell & Ross dive models or aviation designs, this limited edition (of 500) model
offers subtler accents and lower-watt luminosity.
But there’s plenty that glows here, even if it’s not SuperLuminova, which here is strictly on the minute hand and seconds hand. The bright case, back dial and gold-appliqué dial and tachymeter markers create an enjoyably luxurious limited edition. Some might prefer greater contrast on the polished case, with perhaps matte or brushed finishing alongside the high sheen, but the polish is an aesthetic choice Bell & Ross clearly prefers here, possibly to emphasize the watch’s limited edition status. Statement clear.
Inside, module masters Dubois-Depraz enhance the ETA base caliber to create a chronograph and flyback that each function beautifully, with smooth pushers and satisfying clicks.
I found myself frequently engaging the chronograph just to watch the golden jet plane that is attached to the chronograph’s central minute as it glides its way across the dial. (See the above chart for a BR 126 Sport Heritage GMT & Flyback dial layout lesson.)
The flyback here is a true bonus that is helpful in multi-event timing situations, while the easy-to-set second time zone (simply press the small pusher at 10) makes life simple when traveling. And, as noted earlier, this model would be an ideal multitime zone travel companion–especially after scoring that seat upgrade.
Price: $7,900 Minute hand Button A: Start and stop chronograph Permanent sm all second Date Tachymetric Scale 24-hour second time zone (GMT at 9 o’clock) Hour hand Center chronograph seconds hand a Center chronograph minute hand The subdial is set using button C. Pressing once adjusts the time one hour.
By Michael Thompson