Drip or Drown? An Overview of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

<p>The Aquanaut has a relatively young history within the grand history of Patek Philippe. While it is inspired by the popular Nautilus, the Aquanaut has its own distinct design and appeal. In our overview you’ll learn:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="#history">History of the model</a></li>
<li><a href="#design">Design features</a></li>
<li><a href=""#nautilus">Aquanaut vs. Nautilus</a></li>
<li><a href="#models">Popular models</a></li>
</ul>
<h2><a id="history"></a>A Brief History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut</h2>
<p>Launched in 1997, and celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2022, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut was designed for a younger, more modern generation. In the late 1990s, we saw the ‘Dot Com Boom’ where the technology industry exploded and the stock market was rising. Younger people, in particular, saw the potential in the new industry and many companies were started and sold quickly.</p>
<p>The luxury market adapted and designed products aimed at younger collectors and Patek Philippe answered with the Aquanaut. This would be the first collection from the brand since the launch of the Nautilus in the 70s, only followed by the 1999 launch of the ladies Twenty~4.</p>
<h3>5060A</h3>
<div id="attachment_1163792" style="width: 810px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1163792" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-1163792" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/PATE308084_3736519_6.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Patek Philippe 5060A" width="800" height="800" /><p id="caption-attachment-1163792" class="wp-caption-text"><em>Patek Philippe 5060A</em></p></div>
<p>The reference 5060A was the first Aquanaut released, it measured 35.6mm. The dial pattern is quite distinctive on this model. Different than the horizontal stripes on the Nautilus, the original Aquanaut is a block pattern and at first glance it could even look like blocks of chocolate. Today’s dial pattern is reminiscent of this but is more elegant and much more subtle.</p>
<p>At the time of the launch, the large Arabic numerals filled with lume were striking and stood out from other models. Another first for Patek Philippe was the addition of the rubber strap. It took more than a year to develop and test. From the beginning, the strap pattern has matched the dial pattern, creating a sense of continuity between the two.</p>
<h2><a id="design"></a>Design Features of the Aquanaut</h2>
<p>It’s no secret that the Aquanaut is heavily influenced by the Nautilus, although it was not designed by legend Gerald Genta. The original Aquanaut measured smaller than the Nautilus, however with today’s current references, the Aquanaut is slightly larger.</p>
<p>The Aquanaut features a water resistance of 120m thanks to its screw-down crown and caseback. The sporty rubber ‘Tropical’ strap sets the model apart from the more formal Nautilus.</p>
<div id="attachment_1163796" style="width: 810px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img aria-describedby="caption-attachment-1163796" loading="lazy" class="size-full wp-image-1163796" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/PatekPhilippe_Aquanaut_5164R-3.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Aquanaut 5164R" width="800" height="500" /><p id="caption-attachment-1163796" class="wp-caption-text"><em>Photo: David Marchon</em></p></div>
<h3>How to Size the Strap</h3>
<p>The strap is designed to be cut to fit the wrist. If you look at the bottom, you’ll notice the spring bar sits in sections, which indicates where to cut when you are sizing. It is imperative that you properly measure the strap before cutting as there is no option to add material back afterward.</p>
<p>First, you’ll want to remove the buckle from the strap. From there, cut one section and try the watch on again. If the strap is still too large, cut a section from the opposite side to balance the strap. Keep repeating this one section at a time, alternating, until the watch sits securely around your wrist.</p>
<h3>Setting The Time</h3>
<p>Setting the time happens the same way it would on any other Patek watch. Fully unscrew the crown and then move outwards to the farthest setting. The second hand should stop running and now you can turn the crown to set the time.</p>
<p>On a model such as the reference 5968A, the Aquanaut Chronograph, there is a pusher at 8 o’clock for date correction. On the Aquanaut Travel Time reference 5164, there are pushers along the left case flank for setting local time, the top pusher is -1 hour while the bottom is +1 hour. On this model, the date corrector pusher is found at 4 o’clock.</p>
<h2><a id="nautilus"></a>Patek Philippe Aquanaut or Nautilus</h2>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1163797" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Aquanaut-vs-Nautilus-Patek-Philippe.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Aquanaut vs Nautilus Patek Philippe" width="720" height="450" /></p>
<p>When looking at the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Patek-Philippe-Aquanaut-5066A-001.html">Aquanaut</a> next to the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-nautilus/">Nautilus</a>, there are obvious similarities between the two. They have similar case shapes and identical movements, but there are quite a few differences between the two. Watch our full comparison between the <a href="https://tv.thewatchbox.com/videos/patek-philippe-nautilus-vs-patek-philippe-aquanaut-5711-1a-010-and-5167a-001">Nautilus 5711 vs. the Aquanaut 5167</a>.</p>
<p>The Aquanaut is typically found on the tropical rubber strap, while the Nautilus typically has a metal bracelet. This difference also plays into the fact that the Aquanaut is typically the sportier model, being a slightly larger case size and having a more robust clasp when comparing bracelet to strap.</p>
<p>The Aquanaut has a more legible dial. The large Arabic numerals are fully lumed and have complementing lumed indices along the outer edge of the dial. The Nautilus, while also lumed, features white gold indices that are much thinner. Looking at the seconds hand, the Aquanaut is also more legible and features a slightly larger lacquered hand versus a thin white gold. The dials themselves are very different with the Nautilus featuring a stepped horizontal stripe. The Aquanaut has a geosphere pattern, which also mimics within the strap pattern. Both dials do feature a gradient of color between the center and the edges, but the Aquanaut is slightly more reflective.</p>
<p>Looking at the case of both watches for their time-only models, the Nautilus is smaller across the wrist. While the Nautilus is also a thin watch, the Aquanaut is actually 2mm thinner even though overall the case is larger on the wrist. Those with a smaller wrist tend to find the Nautilus a better size while a larger wrist prefers the Aquanaut.</p>
<h3>Pricing Differences & Availability</h3>
<p>Because the Aquanaut is typically found on a rubber strap instead of a full metal bracelet, the model is typically lower in price when compared to the Nautilus.</p>
<p>In today’s pre-owned market, both models are highly sought after. Luckily between the two models, there are many different reference options featuring time-only, chronographs, annual calendars, or moonphases. Typically the Aquanaut is priced between $36,000 – $160,000 on the pre-owned market depending on the model and accessories.</p>
<h2><a id="models"></a>Popular Aquanaut Models</h2>
<p>There are many different versions of the Aquanaut available even with a shorter production time compared to the Nautilus.</p>
<h3>Reference 5167/1A-001</h3>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1163794" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/PatekPhilippe_Aquanaut_51671A001.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Patek Philippe 5167A" width="800" height="500" /></p>
<p>This 40mm Aquanaut features a stainless steel bracelet with a large geosphere-style black dial.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/4477881.html">SHOP THIS WATCH</a></p>
<h3>Reference 5968A-001</h3>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1163795" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Patek-Philippe-5968A1.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Patek Philippe 5968A" width="800" height="450" /></p>
<p>This is a more complicated version of the Aquanaut, featuring a chronograph function. The model features a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/4493961.html">SHOP THIS WATCH</a></p>
<h3>Reference 5164A-001</h3>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1163793" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Patek-Philippe-Aquanaut-Travel-Time_5164A-001_2.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Patek Phiippe 5164A" width="800" height="533" /></p>
<p>The Aquanaut also has a travel time version. This model looks more similar to a Nautilus due to the pushers on the left side of the case which control the local time. Similar to the chronograph version, there is a subdial at 6 o’clock, this is a date function instead of a chronograph register.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Patek-Philippe-Aquanaut-5164A-001.html">SHOP THIS WATCH</a></p>
<h3>Additional Aquanaut Releases</h3>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1163791" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/WB_Mothers_Day_Aquanaut_Luce-2.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="Aquanaut Luce Models" width="800" height="500" /></p>
<p>In 2021, Patek Philippe released seven new Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce models. The Aquanaut Luce is the ladies line that features quartz or automatic movements and a diamond-set bezel. Luce is ‘light’ in Italian, referencing the reflection from the diamonds, and this subset of the Aquanaut collection for women was launched in 2004.</p>
<p>Two new men’s models from 2021 were white gold chronograph pieces with either a blue or green dial with a matching Tropical rubber strap.</p>
<h3>Where To Buy</h3>
<p>As with any watch, purchasing from a trusted source is the route to go in the secondary market. WatchBox has a trained team of watchmakers inspecting each watch before it becomes available for sale. Are you ready to begin your journey? Here’s everything you need to know about the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/blog/patek-philippe-nautilus-collectors-watch.html">Patek Philippe Nautilus</a>.</p>

Patek Philippe

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Emily Smith

Emily joined the WatchBox team in 2015 and loves the history of watches and learning how they work. She has now started to build out her own collection, consisting of a vintage Omega and vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual, with her eyes on many other pieces. She appreciates the design and intricate details in watches and is always looking to learn more about the art.

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