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WatchBox Reviews

Rolex Daytona (Beach?): Omega Seamaster Overload; Girard-Perregaux In Force; Zenith's El Primero

Rolex is on the agenda, but this evening’s Watches Live showcases the best of luxury watches from premier brands including Girard-Perregaux, Omega Watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zenith, and De Bethune. Dress watches, sports watches, steel watches, and precious metals are on offer. Our Rolex Milgauss Z-Blue offers an olive branch to the largest body of luxury watch buyers watching the show. The stainless steel 40mm case of Rolex’s antimagnetic watch is graceful, simple, and surprisingly versatile for a watch designed for niche applications adjacent to particle accelerators. Omega watches are on hand to provide a balanced profile of mainstream stainless steel sports watches. In contrast to past episodes, which focused on dive watches, this clutch of Omega Seamasters is built around the Aqua Terra watch family. De Bethune’s sensational 2018 Steel Wheels limited edition leads our line of exotics. Its 42.7mm titanium case, spring-loaded floating lugs, and six-day power reserve are headlining features, but the details are just as satisfying. De Bethune’s superb spherical moonphase of blued titanium and palladium never ceases to impress, and the use of blued titanium as a color accent propels this DB28 to extremes of detail and accomplishment. A Lange & Sohne of Saxony takes an opposite approach; the Datograph flyback chronograph is traditional in style and detail. Its rose gold case and galvanized black sterling silver dial mark this as the model owned by watchmaking great Philippe Dufour; the “Dufour-ograph” is one of the few modern watches worn by Dufour but not made by him. Two entrants from the Jaeger-LeCoultre partnership with Aston Martin fly the flag for La Grande Maison. The Master Hometime is a dual-time stainless steel dress watch that can double for sports attire. Its twin time zone layout is clean, logical, and handsome; its Aston Martin co-branding is subtle. With a 40mm stainless steel case, this is a luxury watch for those who plan to travel with one timepiece that can do it all. In contrast, the aggressive Amvox 7 is a sports chronograph directly inspired by the style of Aston Martin cars. The “grill-style” dial center, “speedometer” dial features, and “gas cap” crown leave little doubt that Jaeger-LeCoultre designers drew deeply from their source material. But the hinged case and pusher-less chronograph system of the Amvox 7 remains as brilliant and unique as when it first bowed in 2006 on the pioneering Amvox 2. Additional refinements come in the form of quick-release lugs and a radial power reserve at the top of the dial. A Lange & Sohne Datograph 403.031 Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Scubatec 00.10632.23.33.22 Corum Golden Bridge 113.550.59/0001 De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels DB28SWTIS1PN Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement LM 93505-21-631-BA6E Girard-Perregaux Ferrari Chronograph reference 8020 Girard-Perregaux Ferrari Chronograph 250 GT TDF Tour de France 8090 Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver 8867E Girard-Perregaux R&D 01 Chronograph 49930.1.11.6656 IWC Portuguese Hand Wound F.A. Jones 5442-01 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hometime Q162847N Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox 7 Q194T470 Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Day-Date Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 116519 “Daytona Beach” Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss 116400 Z-Blue Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 116500LN Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar Palladium Dial 03.2072.4054/18.C711 Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 47112/000P-8915