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Mailbag! Breguet vs. IWC Watches: Lange Assembly; Audemars Piguet vs Patek Philippe Purchase

Tim Mosso on Instagram: tim_mosso Tonight on Monday Mailbag, we discuss your questions about collecting luxury watches. The show opens with a tough choice between two steel sports watches from IWC watches and Breguet watches. We compare the IWC Big Pilot's Watch IW 5009-12 to the Breguet Type XXI 3817 flyback chronograph to gauge whether a long power reserve or an aviator's chronograph is the better option for a watch buyer who must choose just one. We answer a viewer question about hairsprings, and Tim clarifies the difference between a flat hairspring and a Breguet overcoil (or any overcoil) hairspring. The effect of hairspring center of gravity on timekeeping and chronometric performance of a watch takes center stage in this discussion; for good measure, we review vintage marine chronometer cylindrical hairsprings and Jaeger LeCoultre's revolutionary spherical hairspring from the Gyrotourbillon 3. A user question about A. Lange & Sohne watches inspires us to examine why Lange watches and Patek Philippe watches are assembled twice before delivery to collectors. The benefits of assembling a luxury watch movement prior to investing in component finish are discussed in depth. A viewer asks whether his Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Ultra Thin 41 is sufficiently durable to wear everyday. Finally we address a watch buyer's request that we compare the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400ST. For good measure, we offer our insights into the Patek Philippe caliber 324 SC and the Audemars Piguet's caliber 3120. All of this and reams of watch collector wrist shots on tonight's episode of Monday Mailbag