Roger Dubuis does complications. As a former specialist in the art of mechanical magic for Patek Philippe, Harry Winston, and a litany of haut-de-gamme clients, Roger Dubuis mastered the full spectrum of complicated watchmaking prior to founding his eponymous firm in 1995.
This Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is the distilled result of Dubuis’ experience on his trek to the top of haute horlogerie. Measuring 40mm wide by 52mm lug-to-lug, the 18-karat white gold case is an imposing presence on the wrist. Cambered contouring ensures outstanding fit even on smaller forearms. When combined with a robust twin-trigger white gold deployant clasp, the exquisite perforated black leather strap inspires confidence and pride.
All elements of the case are finished to the highest standards of Geneva watchmaking. Vertically brushed case and lug flanks contrast with the gleaming polished portions of the bezel and upper lugs. Screws and burly solid bars and employed to fix the strap in place; it’s not as convenient for your jeweler as a spindly spring pin, but the quality and strength is unrivaled. Manufacturer Roger Dubuis cuts no corners and spares no expense to deliver a top-shelf experience.
The dial is as scintillating as the case. A stylized “rayon”-inspired array of Roman numerals define the sprawling hour track, and the Golden Square’s signature complications are clustered about a partial “railroad” inner dial. The day, date, month, and radial date deliver a succinct summary of the calendar on any given day – including February 29; the danger zone window at three o’clock gives notice when the calendar system should not be adjusted.
Roger Dubuis enhances the simple crescent-aperture moon phase with a stunning lapis lazuli moon disc. The semiprecious blue stone, which contains scattered golden metallic elements, creates a dazzling heavenly backdrop to the applied moon itself.
Roger Dubuis equips the Golden Square Perpetual with an equally stunning power plant: the caliber RD5739. This Geneva Hallmarked automatic movement features all of the signature elements of the famed “poincon”: blinding anglage campers, brilliant textured “Cotes de Geneve” waves, black-polished screw heads and regulator, and tight ‘”perlage” machine turning of the base plate.
Excruciating attention to detail elevates an already impressive feat of micro-engineering to the level of fine art. Twin mainspring barrels in series, an efficient unidirectional winding system, a secure “swan’s neck” regulator, and certified timing precision via the Observatory at Besancon, France ensure that the RD5739 is as accurate as it is beautiful.
See this exceptional 18-karat white gold Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar in high-resolution images on www.watchuwant.com.