“It’s Seamaster. Omega, Seamaster.” While the Omega Seamaster name most commonly invokes images of the watch worn by suave spy James Bond, the collection is one of the most diverse lineups with so much to offer. Many Omega watches bear the Seamaster designation, and as such, every watch lover has their own vision of “The” Omega Seamaster. The earliest models more closely resemble a dressy timepiece, while some of the more modern interpretations are a bit more robust — simply put, there are Seamaster watches at all levels of dressy- and sporty- ness. While famous pieces like the Aqua Terra, Planet Ocean, Ploprof, and Seamaster 300 all fall under the Omega Seamaster umbrella, the most iconic and common is undeniably the Seamaster Diver 300m, thanks to 007 himself. Interested in learning more about James Bond’s most worn watches? Read this guide to see what pieces he was sporting.
The History of the Omega Seamaster
Few watches have a history that can rival the rich pedigree of the Omega Seamaster. The line dates back to 1948 when Omega celebrated its centenary with the release of the first Seamaster. Omega wanted this new watch to be suitable for those who desire both a rugged and dressy piece. In addition to its clean and agreeable dial, this early model had an improved water resistance over the preceding Omega Marine watches of the 1930s. The next iteration of the watch, the Seamaster 300, was better outfitted for underwater exploration with its more legible dial and dive bezel. The collection’s capabilities were proven time and time again by withstanding its natural habitat, most notably on Oceanographer Jacques Cousteau’s expeditions, and was further catapulted into fame when it became part of the James Bond franchise. The watch has seen many redesigns over the years, with each line deserving its own spotlight.
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Explore Key Seamaster Models
Despite a wide variety of Omega Seamaster models, there are a handful of pieces worth honing in on. From the famously sporty Aqua Terra to the elevated Ploprof, there’s something unique to each watch in this series. Check out a handful of our favorite Seamasters.
Seamaster 300 Chronometer
One of the collection’s hallmark models is the Seamaster 300, and it’s offered in a variety of metals like steel, gold, and ceramic. Additionally, some chronometer movements are also available in this line up—just take the handsome ref. 2531.80.00 for example. This 41mm stainless steel piece is captivating with its blue wave dial.
Introduced in 1993, the Seamaster Diver 300m is the brand’s interpretation of a modern dive watch. True to its name, it’s water-resistant up to 300 meters and includes a helium escape valve on its case which allows it to be used on professional dive excursions. Additionally, it’s equipped with a unidirectional rotating timing bezel and luminous details on the dial. If you’re looking for a stainless steel version of this piece, discover a pre-owned Diver 300m Co-Axial ref. 2220.80.00. Prices for this watch vary widely, from Diver 300m GMT Chronographs coming in at around $5,000 to gold pieces that go for about $24,000.
Since its debut in 2005, the Planet Ocean has continued to evolve as one of the Seamaster’s most well-known models. They flaunt an impressive water-resistance of up to 600m, and they have the helium escape valve at the 10 o’clock mark. Like other Seamaster series, the Planet Ocean is available in various watches with three hands, and models with a chronograph and GMT function. Learn more about the Planet Ocean Chronograph when you read this thorough review.
To better serve technical diving needs, Omega released the Ploprof 600m and 1000m in the early 1970s. Interestingly, “Ploprof” stands for “plongeur professionnel” which is French for “professional diver.” Two features in particular that draw collectors to this model are the crown at the 9 o’clock surrounded by a sturdy crown protector, and the diving bezel with a security pusher at the 2 o’clock. Prices for these pieces typically range in cost from $7,300 to $13,000.
Great for everyday wear, the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is named after the Latin words for “water” and “earth.” Quite literally, this piece can transition seamlessly from water to land. While these models aren’t specifically designed for professional diving and they do not have a rotating timing bezel, they still feature a water resistance up to 150m. Other key features of the Aqua Terra include its round case, smooth bezel, grooved dials, and time and date functionality. For this model, prices typically range from $5,000 to $10,000 depending on demand and other factors.
With a collection as expansive and historic as this one, it’s no surprise that there are a number of limited editions and rare pieces on the pre-owned market. For example, limited edition Seamaster Bullheads are highly sought after, as well as a number of limited 1957 Trilogy Railmasters, and Spectre LE models with the lollipop seconds hand. If you’re interested in snagging a rare model, check out this 150th Anniversary ref. 2232.30.00with a titanium case surrounding a silver sunburst dial.