Seamless: Integrated Bracelet Watches

<p>Call it like it is, watches with integrated bracelets are continuing to have their moment in the spotlight over the last few years, primarily fueled by the massive demand for the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/patek-philippe/patek-philippe-nautilus/">Patek Philippe Nautilus</a> and the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/audemars-piguet/audemars-piguet-royal-oak/">Audemars Piguet Royal Oak</a>. We’re seeing more entrants in the category than ever, ranging from high-level competitors to entry level also-rans, but it’s worth noting that this trend is anything but new. The ‘60s and ‘70s were filled with this kind of design work, which slowly began dwindling as the Quartz Crisis reared its ugly head, and the need to cut manufacturing costs began to strangle brands across the industry. With the industry the way it is today, and the collecting community having no problem parting with cash so long as they see tangible value in quality and finishing, it’s a logical progression to see the trend return to the market.</p>
<p>It’s hard to take on this category without a mention of Gerald Genta, but it’s with specific reason that we’re not going to spend much time on the famed designer. While he is responsible for the creation of some of the most popular integrated bracelet designs, he did not invent the style. Integrated bracelet <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/omega/omega-constellation/">Omega Constellation</a> models came before the Royal Oak, and prior to that there were ample examples of watches (especially in the women’s watch category) where bracelets melded seamlessly into cases in a manner that was inseparable. While the man did fuel the boom of the category, it is not his to own, and to say all integrated bracelet watches are of “Genta influence” is a frustrating misnomer at best.</p>
<p>So, by definition, what is an integrated bracelet? Unlike other categories in watchmaking, this one is pretty cut-and-dried. An integrated bracelet on a watch is one that meshes into the watch case in a way that defies the traditional lugs and strap design seen across the industry. This can mean the use of central lugs, or a bracelet that flares out past the lugs, or a bracelet that attaches to the case via a center lug rather than an end link. In many respects it falls under the umbrella of “you know it when you see it”, but you can also look at a watch with an integrated bracelet as one whose bracelet or strap you won’t be able to easily swap out to something else on a whim. Now that we’ve covered the backbone of what we’re looking at, let’s have a closer look at some of the category’s leading offerings.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="alignleft wp-image-1162829" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/04-08-2021-Integrated-Bracelets-pull-quote.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="" width="800" height="415" /></p>
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<h3>Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202</h3>
<p><strong> </strong>As we noted in our introduction, you can’t talk integrated without talking Royal Oak. Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak is a legend in the space, and its unique integrated bracelet design remains largely unchanged from inception to present day. To many, the Royal Oak Extra Thin Jumbo 15202 is the one and only quintessential modern Royal Oak to own. When talking about a product line that includes so many references over a now 49 year period, that’s a big statement. In essence, the 15202 is a recreation of the original reference <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDObkSEZFN4">5402</a> from 1972, offered in a handful of different metals and dial colors. It measures 39mm across, like the original, and 8.1mm thick, which is slightly thicker than the original reference, necessary to allow for the fitment of a sapphire crystal. Its logo on the dial is placed back at the 6 o’clock position, as was the case in the original reference as well. Hell, this thing even uses the same AP caliber 2121 that has been in use all this time. Consider this reference less of a “recreation”, and more of an evolution of the original Royal Oak in the best possible way.</p>
<h3>Patek Philippe Nautilus</h3>
<p>The second “Genta reference” in this list is of course the mighty Nautilus—a watch whose desirability spike can only be compared to that of the vintage Porsche 911. Oddly enough, an owner of one is often an owner of the other. The Nautilus is its own beast, in that its more svelte and smoothed design give it an entirely different vibe than its sister at AP. Of course, the classic reference is the now-discontinued <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHJaZIZwnYM">5711 in steel</a>, whose secondary market values are easily between two and three times its approximate $30k retail sticker. The Nautilus is the Birkin bag of watches. It’s the LaFerrari of watches. It’s the “oh I’m sorry, who are you and what have you bought from us before?” of watches. You just CAN’T get one from a Patek AD. Or at least, you couldn’t long before the discontinuation announcement came out. Demand far outweighed its supply, long before there was any talk of it coming off of the market, and if current prices are any indication, that demand isn’t slowing down one bit.</p>
<h3>Vacheron Constantin Overseas</h3>
<p>Before we get to the rest of the category, it makes a fair bit of sense to tackle the third member of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking. Easily the underdog of the trio, the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/vacheron-constantin/vacheron-constantin-overseas/">Vacheron Constantin Overseas</a> is a lovely watch in its own right, and one equally deserving of attention. Many may be unaware, but the Overseas is nearly as old as its siblings. In 1977, Vacheron launched its integrated bracelet competitor—the 222. The model has evolved a fair bit more since then when compared to the evolution of the Nautilus or Royal Oak, but its unique notched bezel design and integrated bracelet remain true to that original Jorg Hysek design. The name 222 was not carried forward, primarily on account of its original significance. 1977 was the 222nd anniversary of Vacheron Constantin as a brand, and thus to have a 222 in 2020 would be rather counterintuitive. In current guise, the Overseas has a bit of a trick up its sleeve that brings surprising practicality to the integrated bracelet/strap category. It’s one of very few in the mix whose bracelet can be swapped out with any real fuss. A quick-release mechanism lets its owner rotate between bracelet, leather, and rubber straps; all three of which are included with purchase.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="alignleft wp-image-1162831" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/04-08-2021-Integrated-Bracelets-sidebar.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="" width="800" height="318" /></p>
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<h3>Bulgari Octo Finissimo</h3>
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<p>It seems like a logical progression to go from the three “icons” of the integrated bracelet category, to the watch that’s trying very hard to become the next icon, if Jean-Claude Babin is allowed to have his way. There’s a lot to love about the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/bvlgari/bvlgari-octo-1/">Octo</a>, but setting its edgy design aside for a minute, there’s no ignoring what the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/BVLGARI-Octo-102713.html">Octo Finissimo</a> means for modern watchmaking. At present, there have been 6 world record-holding references in the collection, all related to being the thinnest watch/movement/etc of a particular complication (or tourbillon, which is not a complication in and of itself). The ultra-flat unit is much larger than the other competitors in the field, but its typically matte finishes and extremely slender profile allow it to hide against the wrist unlike just about anything out there. Though the model range keeps expanding, the lightness of the titanium variant is always the one that comes to mind when thinking of the most pure expression of the collection.</p>
<h3>H. Moser & Cie Streamliner</h3>
<p><strong> </strong>We all know that <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/h--moser-cie/">Moser</a> loves to take potshots at industry tropes, so when word came that Moser was to launch a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet, we knew to expect two things. It would be a distinct and out-of-the-ordinary interpretation of the classic style, and it would be polarizing. Ask and ye shall receive, I suppose, as the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/h--moser-cie/h--moser-cie-streamliner/">Streamliner</a> brings flavors of more obscure ‘70s watchmaking into the new release, now available in both chronograph and 3-hand configurations. On the topic of its integrated bracelet, the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGI1ot1I35Y">Streamliner’s</a> bracelet has no rivals in this list to speak of, as its single-link design hides polished details, all while providing an incredibly comfortable fit on the wrist. It’s an obscure one, for sure, and it won’t be for everybody, but that’s effectively the point of all things Moser, isn’t it?</p>
<h3>A Lange & Sohne Odysseus</h3>
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<p><strong> </strong>From an attempt at an icon, we move to the most surprising release in the category. When <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/a--lange-sohne/">Lange</a> launched the Odysseus it was met with mixed reviews to say the least. Given how immensely traditional the brand’s approach to watchmaking has been thus far, the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/a--lange-sohne/a--lange-sohne-odysseus/">Odysseus</a> seemed out of place to some. To others, especially the Lange faithful, it was finally a more casual watch from their beloved German brand that could be worn outside of the boardroom and formal gatherings. What was agreed upon across the board was one simple thing—the Odysseus is <em>“very Lange”</em> in its execution. The detailed work in its dial, case, and movement finishing are entirely spot-on as to what is expected of the brand, and love it or hate it, you can’t fault them on any of the little details. This is the first-ever standard production line steel watch from the brand, measuring 40.5mm across (though it wears a touch bigger on account of its broad steel integrated bracelet. Surprisingly, only the white gold variant is available on either rubber or leather strap.</p>
<h3>Bell & Ross BR05</h3>
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<p>How do you evolve away from the classic instrument style case that <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/bell-ross/">Bell & Ross</a> has been known for, without losing the entirety of the brand’s design ethos? Enter the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/bell-ross/bell-ross-br-05/">BR05</a>—the new <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Bell-Ross-BR-05-BR05A-BL-STPG-SSG.html/?utm_source=flipbook&utm_medium=flipbook&utm_campaign=issue_03">Bell & Ross integrated bracelet sports watch</a>. We’ll admit this is another design that took a bit of time to warm up to. The circle-in-square aesthetic surrounded by bezel screws on all 4 corners was left intact, but the balance of its case, its general proportions, and its hands have all been tweaked accordingly to suit the style. It’s a pretty thoughtful execution, in a much more compact size than past B&R offerings. This change is especially crucial as the industry continues to move away from the oversized case sizes that helped the brand’s popularity in the earlier days. Though only in the market since 2019, the line has been expanding rapidly, including 3-hand models, chronographs, and even a few skeletonized references in steel, two-tone, and full gold case and bracelet combinations.</p>
<h3>IWC Ingenieur</h3>
<p>Next up on the list is a bit of an underdog, which is quite amusing considering it has more historical pedigree than much of the competition. The<a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/iwc/iwc-ingenieur/"> IWC Ingenieur</a>, specifically the last generation that was discontinued in 2017, has some pretty interesting roots once you dig below the surface. For starters, the first generation <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAWSfD2laYI">Ingenieur</a> (or engineer, en Français) was designed as an anti-magnetic competitor to the Rolex Milgauss, though it never climbed to the same level of fame. In 1978, it received a thoughtful redesign with an integrated bracelet by—you guessed it—Gerald Genta himself. In the previous-gen guise, both the antimagnetic properties and the Genta-based design are echoed into a properly modern watch that should have garnered more praise than it tends to receive. On the plus side, that makes these bad boys a relative bargain on the pre-owned market, which is always a plus. If the overall specs, capabilities, and design are more of a priority than what watches are riding the hype train this month, the Ingenieur may well be worth a look.</p>
<h3>Omega Constellation</h3>
<p><strong> </strong>This one is a bit of an odd one, we know. Back in the early days, the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/omega/omega-constellation/">Omega Constellation</a> was one of the very early watches to be penned with an integrated bracelet, and it’s a collection that evolved quite interestingly through until the ‘80s where, well, things got a little weird. The <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/omega/">Omega</a> Constellation of that generation really was the quintessential horological expression of the excess of the time. It was almost frilly in its design, and it seems Omega has decided that it’s time to bring it back. Many of the design cues—the engraved Roman Numeral bezels, the mirrored and raised crown guards that flank the bezel at 3 and 9, the flat and lugless case. It’s all there, and proud of it. How confident is Omega that the ‘80s are back in fashion? At current, the catalog counts 146 references, including steel, two-tone, and gold models in 35mm, 36mm, 38mm, 39mm, and 41mm available on rubber, leather, or full metal bracelet. If that’s not ballsy, I don’t know what is.</p>
<h3>Tudor North Flag</h3>
<p><strong> </strong>And now for something a little more… modest? The <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/tudor/">Tudor</a> North Flag is a bit more of a traditional tool watch that comes with a much more approachable sticker price, making it a surprising contender as a proper “go anywhere do anything” piece. To be fair, this is seldom seen in a watch with an integrated bracelet, but leave it to Tudor to mix things up. Its roots go back to an early Tudor Ranger ii model that also had an integrated bracelet, and its name borrows inspiration from an expedition to Greenland in the ‘50s that Tudor played a small role in, but history isn’t really the North Flag’s linchpin. What’s much more noteworthy is that the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Tudor-North-Flag-91210N.html/">North Flag</a> was the first offering from the brand to be fitted with an in-house manufacture caliber, setting the scene for the ongoing rollout of the brand’s manufacturing independence. It’s a charming watch to boot, and at 40mm across and 13.4mm thick, with a high-contrast white-on-black dial it’s got plenty of presence on the wrist.</p>
<h3>Zenith Defy Classic</h3>
<p><strong> </strong>More aligned with the Bell & Ross and Bulgari offerings in this list, when <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/zenith/">Zenith</a> set out to pen the modern <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/zenith/zenith-defy/">Defy collection</a>, there was no time or effort spent trying to pay tribute to history. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9c-UtxakXs">The Defy</a> first started as the line of the boundary-pushing Defy21 Chronograph, which was intended as an expression of the brand’s vision of the future. In order to build the Defy Classic, little was done as far as attempting to subdue its beefy take on a tonneau case aside from shaving off some unnecessary case thickness when moving to a 3-hand time indication over a chronograph. Primarily found with 5-spoke style skeletonized dials (and the occasional blue dial “traditional” piece), the Defy Classic plays up the “edgy sports watch” look rather nicely. As the collection grows, don’t expect much in the way of traditional materials; its latest releases have been appearing with carbon, ceramic, and titanium cases, more often than not.</p>
<h3>Hublot Big Bang Integral</h3>
<p>Everyone loves going out with a bang, right? It’s almost shocking to think how long it took <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/hublot/">Hublot</a> to decide to offer the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/hublot/hublot-big-bang/">Big Bang</a> on an integrated bracelet, however, given the immense popularity of their quick-change strap system and the lightweight properties that came with it I don’t think that many were too disappointed. As small as the change may seem, swapping out the brand’s bolted quick-change lug system for a bracelet that seamlessly flows into its case makes a world of difference when looking at the Integral alongside a standard Big Bang reference. It’s more subdued, though I struggle to type the word understated. Call it what you will, the combination of the integrated bracelet with the smaller 42mm variant of the Big Bang is a winner that will no doubt open up a new segment of potential buyers. As it should.</p>

A Lange & Sohne Audemars Piguet Bulgari Omega Patek Philippe Vacheron Constantin

Written By

Justin Mastine-Frost

Montreal to Vancouver, to New York, to Toronto, Justin Mastine-Frost’s career and personal interests have led to his spending quite a bit of time on the road. His curiosity and fondness for the realm of horology developed, quickly spiraling to full watch-world immersion. Over the years he has written for Esquire, Bloomberg, High Snobiety, as well as a year as the Senior Editor of the watch category for Robb Report magazine. He is presently Gear Editor for VerticalScope, parent company of Watchuseek and Motorcycle.com, among others.

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