WatchBox Reviews

Omega Railmaster vs Rolex Explorer: Lange 1 Tourbillon; Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990, Luxury Watches

Tim Mosso’s “Watches Live” luxury watch livestream returns with a blinding array of luxury watches, high horology, everyday sports watches, and watch brands of all sizes. The Rolex Explorer matches lugs with Omega’s 1957 Trilogy revival of the Seamaster Railmaster, and that’s only the beginning of a daily selection that runs the gamut from time only models to grand complications. The undeniable highlight of tonight’s broadcast are two tourbillon watches from German speaking watch brands. Schaffhausen brings the rose gold in the form of the IWC Portuguese Tourbillon, a 100-piece limited edition from the 2013 model year that features IWC’s manual wind caliber 98900 tourbillon movement. A Lange & Sohne of Glashutte, Germany, responds with the decadent Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst. This 15-piece platinum limited edition is the third of Lange’s craft art “Handwerkskunst” series of watches. Lange’s champion includes a white gold hand-engraved dial, hand-engraved winding mass, hand-engraved movement bridges, and a hand-painted date, this is a 41.9mm platinum art gallery for your wrist. Omega and Rolex are represented by two time-only watches, the 38mm Railmaster and the Explorer 39mm. But Omega adds complexity to the equation with its all-in-one 43mm Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph in versatile stainless steel. Independent watch brands have their moment courtesy of three models from Vulcain, H. Moser & Cie., and Laurent Ferrier. The Galet Square Boreal Micro-Rotor flies the flag for Geneva; Vulcain and its Cricket Alarm represent Le Locle, and Moser reminds watch buyers that there are two luxury watchmakers in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. Seiko and Grand Seiko of Japan remind watch collectors that luxury watches – superb watches – are built with pride outside of the Occidental boundaries of Europe. The Seiko SLA025 dive watch re-edition offers tremendous character, value, and capability. Chronograph GMT SBGC203 defies luxury convention with the Spring Drive quartz-mechanical hybrid movement • A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst 720.048 • Glashutte Original PanoMaticLunar 90-02-24-02-04 • Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Chronograph SBGC203 • H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Rolls Royce Enthusiasts Club 1321-0216 • IWC Portuguese Tourbillon 5463-05 • Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic Q1428470 • Laurent Ferrier Galet Square Micro-Rotor Boreal LCF0013.AC.NS467 • Omega Railmaster 1957 Trilogy • Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph • Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1A-001 • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 16628 • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 214270 (2016 Rolex Explorer dial) • Seiko Prospex High-Beat 1968 Diver Re-Edition SLA025 • Tudor Pelagos LHD 25610TNL • Ulysse Nardin Classico Dual Time 3243-132/E0 • Vulcain Cricket 50s Presidents Watch