The Case for Smaller Cases

<p>With some exception, it’s safe to say that the days of “oversized” cases dominating the watch industry are long behind us. There will always be massive <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/audemars-piguet/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-offshore/">Royal Oak Offshores</a> and <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/iwc/">IWC</a> Big Pilot Perpetual Calendars out there to suit those with footballer sized wrists, but the days of the 44mm-plus watch world are effectively numbered. <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/bell-ross/">Bell & Ross</a> has slowly been phasing out their large 46mm BR01 models, IWC has resized the Big Pilot down to 43mm for 2021, and even the Rolex Explorer took another step down in size in its latest guise (moving from 39mm to 36mm).</p>
<p>What’s behind this quiet revolution? As always there’s a lot at play, and there’s no clear or definitive answer, but we have some theories. The most obvious influencing factor is the growing popularity of vintage watches, all of which tend to come in more conservative case sizes. More people are now collecting vintage watches, and more brands are recreating vintage references in smaller case sizes than ever before. Beyond the vintage influence there’s also the fashion realm to consider. No, there isn’t necessarily a precise intersection of watchmaking and fashion, so to speak, but it has become apparent that the fad of the “boyfriend watch” made popular by countless brands (including Michael Kors) has thankfully died off. While this might not impact the collecting world, it will certainly impact the mass market in the luxury space, and that is often the driver for change. Collectors and enthusiasts like to think they are the target audience, but any of the larger luxury brands that sell in volume have to keep close eyes on the “I’m not really a watch guy” crowd as well.</p>
<p>No matter how you slice it, the change in category has its perks for a few reasons. For one, watches with smaller cases are inherently more versatile. For example, throwing on a <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/tudor/">Tudor</a> Black Bay Fifty-Eight and letting it slide under a shirt cuff is far more passable than trying to do the same with a 44mm <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/rolex/">Rolex</a> DSSD. Beyond that, it’s also making the watch world a touch more accessible. There’s been much debate about watches and gender of late, and having more options for women that fit their wrists and aren’t buried in gemstones is also a good thing. I get it, smaller cases are not for everyone, but regardless of trend, wearing a watch that’s slightly undersized for your wrist looks far better than one that’s so large its lugs hang past the boundaries of your body. All this in mind, here are some of our current favorite watches in the category.</p>
<p><img loading="lazy" class="alignleft wp-image-1163254" src="https://watchbox-blog.imgix.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/06-10-2021-Blog-Small-Cases-PQ-2.jpg?max-w=1024&q=50&auto=format,compress&usm=10&usmrad=3" alt="" width="800" height="600" /></p>
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<h3 class="textLayer">A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar</h3>
<p>Let’s start with a heavy hitter, shall we? The <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/A--Lange-Sohne-Saxonia-330-032.html">A.Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar</a> was launched back in 2010, and remains a standard in the brand’s current collection. The Annual Calendar is offered in a 38mm rose gold case, fitted with an automatic winding annual calendar complication that includes a large date and moonphase indication. This is a prime example of Lange putting their own spin on a relatively new complication, and doing so in a manner that ticks all the right boxes both visually and functionally. Its movement is also exceptionally finished, as is expected. Sticking with more dressy proportions, its case is a relatively modest 9.8mm thick.<br />
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<h3 class="endOfContent active">Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925</h3>
<p>We mentioned the Fifty-Eight in our intro for good reason, as the more compact <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Tudor-Black-Bay-79010SG.html">38mm Black Bay</a> reference rapidly surpassed its 41mm predecessor in popularity since its initial launch. After all, in this size it runs much closer to the dimensions of a Submariner, though offered at a fraction of the cost from Rolex’s sister company. This year, the 925 arrived as an odd offering, being made of a proprietary silver alloy that Tudor promises will not tarnish with age. The “shades of grey” aesthetic suits the model extremely well, so there’s little surprise that these things are already selling like mad.</p>
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<h3 class="textLayer">Cartier Santos de Cartier Medium</h3>
<p>Though there are still larger references of the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Cartier-Santos-WSSA0029.html">Cartier Santos</a> out there (both past and present editions), there’s still something charming about the compact dimensions of the “Medium” reference. The 35.1mm square case will sound downright dainty to some, but when fitted with its matching metal bracelet,it’s the kind of thing that can still be pulled off by midsized wrists in a heartbeat. It can also be had in a manual winding version, but this clean and simple time-only (no date) automatic ticks all the right vintage-inspired boxes for us.<br />
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<h3 class="textLayer">F.P. Journe Octa Reserve de Marche</h3>
<p>38mm cases have been a part of <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/watches/f-p--journe/">Journe’s</a> watch catalog since day one, though since the discontinuation of the Octa line, most of his current collection is offered in either 40 or 42mm case sizes. The <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/F-P--Journe-Octa-O-ORM-G-38-A-RG.html">Octa Reserve de Marche</a> seen here was in production between 2004 and 2015, and is one of a number of Journe references to feature a movement crafted in rose gold to match its rose gold case and rose gold dial. Surprisingly, this gold-on-gold-on-gold look doesn’t read overtly flashy or gaudy when compared to similar executions from other luxury brands. Perhaps due to the unorthodox off-centered time display, but no matter the metal, any Journe piece manages to present equal parts elegant and refined.<br />
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<h3 class="textLayer">Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m</h3>
<p>For a good while now I’ve been dubbing the newer generation of the compact 38.5mm variant of <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Omega-Seamaster-231-10-39-21-01-001.html">Omega Aqua Terra</a> as a fantastic “go-anywhere, do-anything” watch, and though this older reference lacks the added magnetic resistance of its newer counterparts, it’s still hard to beat for what they’re selling for these days. A Chronometer certified caliber, 150m of water resistance, a screw-down crown, good lume, and a lovely stainless steel case profile? This remains a great option for those who just want one watch that can really do everything.<br />
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<h3 class="textLayer">Rolex Oyster Perpetual 126000</h3>
<p>Yes, of course Rolex had to make this list, especially considering that the long-awaited refresh of the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Rolex-Oyster-Perpetual-126000-0002.html">Oyster Perpetual</a> collection took place just last year. TheOP is now fitted with the brand’s 32xx series caliber with an uprated power reserve of 70 hours, all while maintaining the brand’s remarkable accuracy standards of being a superlative chronometer (variance of +2/-2 seconds per day). Fitted with large luminous-filled baton indexes, with double battens at 3, 6, and 9, this OP has a slightly more tool-like dial than its predecessors, and when combined with a screw down crown and 100m of water resistance, the dressierOP is similarly capable of handling more day to day tasks like the aforementioned Aqua Terra.<br />
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<h3 class="annotationLayer">Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119G</h3>
<p>Depending on who you ask, you’ll sometimes hear the argument that a dress watch should be no bigger than 36mm. Why? This was the norm, for decades upon decades, and legends like Patek Philippe continue to make classics like the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Patek-Philippe-Calatrava-5119G-001.html">5119G</a> that never grew in size to suit the passing fad. Its white lacquer dial is surrounded by a hobnail bezel, which is a bit peculiar for Patek, and its case is a very modest 7.2mm thick. If you’re looking for something properly traditional, look no further, though to some this ultra-conservative (granted timeless) design will be a touch too modest. Granted, given the choice, this white gold reference is miles more appealing than its yellow gold counterpart.<br />
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<h3 class="annotationLayer">Oris Chronoris Movember 2019 Edition</h3>
<p>We’ve seen some good diversity throughout this list, but nothing quite captures the era of ‘70s funk watch design quite like the <a href="https://www.thewatchbox.com/shop/Oris-Chronoris-01-733-7737-4034-Set-LS.html">Oris Chronoris</a>. A tonneau case, paired with a motorsport-influenced dial, and a compressor-style dual crown configuration? This thing is a real winner. I should know, I own one. On paper it reads 39mm in diameter, however given the short lug-to-lug length (due to its case design), and its slightly bubbled caseback, it feels even smaller when on the wrist. There are several slick versions of this watch in the market at present, however the Movember edition from 2019 is arguably the best designed of the pack.<br />
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F.P. Journe A Lange & Sohne Cartier Omega Patek Philippe

Written By

Justin Mastine-Frost

Montreal to Vancouver, to New York, to Toronto, Justin Mastine-Frost’s career and personal interests have led to his spending quite a bit of time on the road. His curiosity and fondness for the realm of horology developed, quickly spiraling to full watch-world immersion. Over the years he has written for Esquire, Bloomberg, High Snobiety, as well as a year as the Senior Editor of the watch category for Robb Report magazine. He is presently Gear Editor for VerticalScope, parent company of Watchuseek and Motorcycle.com, among others.

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